Monday, July 14, 2008
Day 45 - Monday, July 14, 2008
Jacksonville, Florida to Albany, NY
Touch down. Saw a beautiful sunset and the Capitol when making a stop over in Washington, D.C. And then saw the lights of Wolff Road and Colonie when landing in Albany tonight at 10:30PM.
And that's a wrap on the roadtrip that went for one month and a half -- yup, 45 cross-country days!
I'll be assembling a groovy photos slide show to upload to Facebook soon to highlight some of my 4,000 photos!
In the meantime, if you see the archeologist tomorrow (on Wednesday), she turns into an even older lady, so wish her a happy one!
Cheers,
Jackie Kerouac
RSC Traveling Bear Correspondent
Sunday, July 13, 2008
Days 40, 41, 42, 43 - July 9, 10, 11, 12, 2008
Jax (Jacksonville, Florida)
Basically, been spending beaucoup time with the little human in and out of pools and water parks. I didn't know bears could be so water logged! The archeologist follows us where ever we go, and she's starting to develop what passes for a "tan" on her pale, ghost-like skin. She has a real farmer's tan going -- from the mid-bicep down to the wrist and from the mid-thigh down to the ankle. It's something that would cost you extra special at the tanning booth.
Today is the last official day of dawn to dusk vacation.
Tomorrow, we take a plane from Jax to Albany to get ready for the freshmen orientation at both campuses next week. It will be strange to be at home after so many days on the road. And to not get into a pool for a few hours every afternoon. Oh well, it's been a good run.
Can't wait for next year's summer marathon!
Yours in travel and wander lust.
Jackie The Bear
Tuesday, July 8, 2008
Day 39 - Tuesday, July 8, 2008
Jacksonville, Florida
We slept late. We were so bone tired. We could have slept all day.
But we didn't have anything to wear, and we had to do 50 lbs of laundry consisting of a lot of sweaty vacation-ware. So in order to get dressed, we had to do some real bottom-of-the-suitcase scraping. As a result, the archaeologist looked so very fetching in her sultry combo of skin-hugging workout leggings, black socks, and gray long-sleeve shirt. It was about 96 degrees and the V-shaped river of sweat on her back was a real compliment to her ensemble.
Then we went to the craft store to get canvases and paint for an afternoon of creativity by the pool. The little human painted several canvases while the archaeologist worked on one southwest desert scene. When everyone got home, we had a gallery showing and art auction. The little human sold several of her canvases.
Also in the afternoon, the oldest human looked at a house that was going into foreclosure. She's thinking of moving to Florida to be closer to her grandchildren. We'll see what happens.
Monday, July 7, 2008
Day 38 - Monday, July 7, 2008
Marianna, Florida to Jacksonville, Florida
With just a few hours to drive, we pulled into Jacksonville in the late afternoon.
Jacksonville is where the little human lives and her parents were happy to have her back after more than a month.
We all did a month's worth of catching up, and the little human was very excited to show off her cache of treasures and souvenirs from the trip.
We're going to hang here in Jax for a week, and then the archeologish and I are flying back to Albany and Russell Sage.
I'll try to catch up on things a little and start posting more photos on Facebook.
Sunday, July 6, 2008
Day 37 - Sunday, July 6, 2008
Natchitoches, Louisiana through Mississippi through Alabama to Marianna, Florida
Granny had a bee in her bonnet and wanted to get back to Jacksonville to see her granddaughter who was about to leave on a trip to Chicago.
We traveled 580 miles in one day, and didn't get off the highway until almost midnight. But along the way we saw a complete rainbow, end to end, after a short rain storm in Alabama, as well as a shooting star, Venus glowing brightly, and the Milky Way. I guess there are some advantages to driving all night!
Saturday, July 5, 2008
Day 36 - Saturday, July 5, 2008
Shreveport, Louisianna to Natchitoches, Louisianna
We got the little human to the Sci-port Children's Museum by 11AM and she stayed and played until it closed at 6PM. It was a long, fun, playful, educational day, and two adult humans took turns keeping up with the little human (and me).
Along the way, we saw IMAX movies about the Grand Canyon and "Mummies: Secrets of the Pharohs," as well as a short presentation on the Red River. We also took a rest on a bed of nails (!), learning that if your body weight is spread out evenly over the nails it doesn't really hurt.
The Sci-port is a great children's museum with two floors full of hands-on, interactive, visual, tactile experiments, toys, and play areas to amuse, entertain, and edify children, adolescents, and adults. The place was packed. And, again, we spent the entire day there.
Not that I'm a boastful bear, but I must say the little human had lots of fun trying different experiments with me and on me -- and occassionally threatened my life. But I just took it in stride -- after all, it was all in the name of science!
Afterwards, we hit I-49 South trying to make it to Alexandria, but we were too tired and only made it to Natchitoches. We got a hotel for the evening and some information about the many local historic sites. We're going to check out the historic downtown tomorrow morning on our way out of town.
Friday, July 4, 2008
Day 35 - Friday, July 4, 2008
Abilene, Texas to Shreveport, Louisianna
Driving, Driving
We got on I-2o East toward Dallas around 12PM. At our first gas/snack/restroom stop the little human bought us all popscicles with her own money. It was very sweet and thoughtful, and at 100 degrees F, it was also a welcome reprive!
We were trying to get to Shreveport by tonight since we promised the little human that she could have a day playing at the Sci-port Children's Museum there (which she loved so much when we passed through Shreveport on the way out).
So most of the day we were in the car driving and listening to our second Tony Hillerman novel on CD. We like trying to figure out who the killer is and sharing our ideas as to why with each other. It's also really fun to hear names of places (churches, cities, towns, highways, etc.) that we've visited or passed by.
In the ironic department:
a billboard outside of Stephenville read:
- "Need directions?" -- God
The sign was sponsored by a local Baptist church. Right on cue, at our next highway exit (Exit 389 to be precise) the oldest human was driving and went the wrong way on a divided highway and drove straight at the grills of two huge trucks. We all had a squeal and then a nervous laugh, and then not too much later, the little human passed the archeologist a note from the back seat that read:
- "Really, get directions!"-- God
We all laughed for three exits.
Shreveport, LA
Around 6PM we pulled into Shreveport and made a bee-line to our favorite food stop of all time: the Southern Maid Donuts on Greenwood! Happily, it was after 4PM, so we got the HOT donuts right off the conveyor belt and everyone sucked down two hot glazed donuts like they were air. It was worth the 3,000 mile return trip just to get them again!
Aftwards, we got an over-priced room at a Ramada that had once been quite nice, but was now sliding toward seedy. But since it was a holiday and since Shreveport is packed every weekend anyway with gamblers, we felt lucky to get a hotel room at all that didn't have bugs in it. (Although the box spring in our room looked like it had come from the prop department of a 1950's horror film....)
The oldest human sampled some of the local flavor and entertained herself at the in-house casino, while the little human and her archeologist buddy watched the first Harry Potter film on cable.
If you count the $40 the oldest human lost at the casino, this room was more expensive that our most expensive lodging, the Maswik Lodge at the Grand Canyon!
P.S. The night before we were talking to the hotel clerk about our trip and she kept referring to it as the "Grand Canyons." It made me wonder why it is called Canyon and not Canyons, since there are so many twists and turns in it. It might make more sense to call it the Grand Canyons. But on the other hand, it just kind of sounded like George Bush talking about the "Internets," i.e., someone speaking about something they know nothing about.
Thursday, July 3, 2008
Day 34 - Thursday, July 3, 2008
Day 34
Carlsbad, New Mexico to Abilene, Texas
Well, we are officially on our way home. Ever since leaving the Grand Canyon we've had the leisure and pleasure to meander where the road takes us. That's the best way to travel, I think. We stop when we were tired, we followed the brown signs for historical and natural landmarks, and we explored the towns we were in.
Now we're in a different mode -- just putting miles on the odometer. Yesterday, leaving New Mexico we hit 6,148 miles on our trip so far.
Here's the skinny on the driving:
We left Carlsbad taking Rt. 62/180 to Hobbes, on the NM side of the NM/Texas border. The land was mostly flat, scrubby desert, with some rolling hills coming up as we went eastward.
Passing into Texas, the land was still mostly flat, but not desert anymore -- there were alternating patches of grass and crops. We could see the clouds and sky for miles, and could even see it raining on the southern horizon. (That was cool.)
We also saw lots oil rigs pumping, and a new mark on the landscape -- dozens of wind farms. Sometimes the two structures were together and made for an interesting juxtaposition.
We passed through the Texas towns of Seminole, Lamesa, and Snyder heading east on 180. At Snyder we took 84 East for a few miles to get to I-20 at Roscoe. Then we headed straight into Abilene, and spent the night swimming and relaxing in the hotel pool.
More miles ahead of us. And because of time, we can no longer take the road less traveled. Sorry, Mr. Frost. We wish we could.
Wednesday, July 2, 2008
Day 33 - Wednesday, July 2, 2008
Day 33
Carlsbad, NM
Best Day Ever.
This day ran the gamut from the searing heat the of the Chihuahuan Desert (enjoyed by its panoply of succulents, but not the sweating humans) to the cool, dark wonders of Carlsbad Caverns to the thrilling flight of the Mexican free-tail bats that swarm out of the cave's entrance at sunset.
This bear's paws are wicked tired from all the hiking we did at our two main stops today:
- The Living Desert Zoo & Gardens State Park
- Carlsbad Caverns National Park
The last stop on the tour was "Succulents of the World" in a green-house hot-house that blasted off our skin when we just approached the door. (We admired that exhibit from afar!)
Then we got a quick lunch and drove the 23 miles to Carlsbad Caverns. Here are the impressive stats about the Cavern: it's the largest underground cavern in the Western Hemisphere; it's 750 feet underground; it's one of 2o World Heritage sites in the US; some folks call it the 8th Natural Wonder of the World; some folks say its the most beautiful and spectacular cavern in the world.
I can certainly see why this last claim has been made. Roughly in the shape of a cross and the size of 14 football fields, every view is breathtaking, every formation fascinating. It's like an underground cathedral of beauty and spectacle with infinite poetic turns and scientific wonders. From whatever perspective you tour this wonder -- spiritual, scientific, poetic, artistic, geological, historical, biological -- it does not disappoint. You can't help feeling a sense of awe and inspiration while visiting this unsurpassed, otherly world slice of the earth's inner space.
[Also, for the scatological-minded, there's also a fascinating pile of 45,000 year old bat guano that stands out as a highlight of the tour!]
And then, as if marveling at all the cave formations isn't enough, at the end of the day something even more spectacular happens: a half-million sparrow-sized bats fly out of the entrance to the cave at sunset to begin their nocturnal gorging of insects (they will each consume their own body weight in dinner each evening).
At sunset we waited for the bats to ascend and when they did there was a blanket of awe across the entire human audience gathered there for the spectacle. The bats swarmed out in a cylindrical spiral and then spit out across the desert in one long ebony, organic plume. The rangers told us that the bats may fly as far out as 30 miles and as far up as 10,000 feet. Who knew that there were juicy insects to eat at 9,999 feet -- but apparently there are.
We watched the symphony of bats swirling out of the cave for 30 minutes and then had to leave because the park was closing the gates at 9PM. Even as we drove away, we could still see the stream of darkness beating its palm-sized wings against the purple evening sky.
It's not a sight that we're likely to forget soon. And since we couldn't use our cameras at the site (electronic devices interfere with the bats' sonar), we'll just have to savor the memory in our minds.
Really, between the succulents, the stalactites, and the shimmering bats, this was my favorite day yet as a tourist.
State and national parks rock!
PS Like I said, we couldn't take a photo of the bats, but below is the desert at sunset that they were flying over.
Tuesday, July 1, 2008
Day 32 - Tuesday, July 1, 2008
Roswell, NM to Carlsbad, NM
This morning we took the little human to a local children's medical practice because she had been complaining of stomach aches for several days. A very thorough and nice doctor examined her, and found her basically to be fine. Maybe having some growing pains and some altitude sickness or car sickness. They took an x-ray just to make sure she was okay and everything was fine.
We celebrated the good news at the little human's favorite buffet chain and then began the drive down 285 South through Artesan to Carlsbad. We're planning on seeing the Living Dessert Zoo & Gardens in the morning and then the famous Carlsbad Caverns in the afternoon, and of course the famous sunset bat flight afterwards.
In preparation for our big day tomorrow, we called it an early day today. We got a hotel room around 4:00PM, and swam and played games in the hotel room and then ordered in a pizza and watched Disney movies.
In general, it was a low key day after the busy morning of making sure our little human was okay. Thank goodness she is!
Monday, June 30, 2008
Day 31 Aside - Monday, June 30, 2008
Roswell, NM
The sun rose over Roswell and as the rays illuminated the streets and byways, we, too,were struck by the rays of TRUTH about what happened in Roswell in 1947.
And all it took was one trip to the International UFO Museum & Research Center.
There, we learned all about the Roswell Incident timeline, the field research, the newspaper reports, the government cover up, the "Top Secret - EYES ONLY" report from the Majic 12 to president-elect Eisenhower, and on and on.
Also, we saw a compelling documentary about the footage captured by the Space Shuttle in 1991 that pretty clearly shows several space craft leaving the earth's atmosphere at incredible speeds. That footage was being broadcast live from the Space Shuttle exterior cameras. Immediately afterwards all live broadcasts from the Space Shuttle were discontinued and the signal was encrypted and scrambled for military and NASA usage only.
Makes you wonder.
But I also wonder this: if there really are visitations from other planets, why would the government continue to go to the trouble of covering it up? Haven't enough people seen movies such as "Contact" and "Men in Black" and "The X Files" to already believe in such things.....or at least keep an open mind about the possibility of other intelligent life in the cosmos besides homo sapiens?
I mean, what's the big deal these days? Will the fundamentalists implode if "little green men" are confirmed? Will the Holy Sea evaporate if God has touched fingertips with someone other than Adam and his progeny?
Can't we just cut to the chase and forget about all the arguing about the validity of crop circles and cattle mutilation and alien abductions (and probes and implants), and just agree that in an infinite universe with infinite numbers of galaxies and infinite numbers of stars and infinite numbers of solar systems and infinite numbers of planets, that somewhere, sometime, someplace some little green mankind will figure out how to propel themselves here and it's about time our little corner of the cosmos came to terms with that possibility (or probability)?
Open the files, open the Blue Books, open the FOIA requests, open the archives. Let's see who really killed Kennedy and what really happened in the desert in the summer of 1947. Really -- what are we afraid of? Or, more to the point, what is our government afraid of for us?
Do we really care if we are the only ones in the universe? Does it really make us special or not special if other beings can make vehicles and visit other places? How is that going to change our daily lives? Will gas prices go up or down if EBEs are confirmed? ("Extraterrestrial Biological Entities"). Will you adjust your own personal metaphysics if "we are not alone"? What will it mean to you psychically or spiritually? Can your concept of God handle other beings from other planets? These are the interesting questions, to this little bear's mind. Not the supposed cover ups and the supposed crashes in the isolated desert patches.
ET either does exist or does not. ET either has visited earth or has not. Who has proof about ET and why or why not they share it with other is not particularly interesting to me. The interesting thing about ET is how your concept of the universe changes, expands or collapses when and if ET is shown to exist.
Remember, the center of an infinitely expanding universe is you. Roswell isn't about ET. Roswell is about you. And what your concept of reality can contain.
Sunday, June 29, 2008
Day 30, Sunday, June 29, 2008
Day 30
Socorro, NM to Roswell, NM
We entered Roswell around 9:30PM under the cover of night, just like all the other aliens....
The VLA
Along the way from our starting point of Socorro, we also stopped at the Very Large Array radio telescope where the SETI projects is housed (and which was made famous by the film "Contact" starring Jodie Foster).
Traveling from there to Roswell, we also passed near the site of the Trinity Site, the location of the world's first atomic explosion near the White Sands desert and mountain range. This site is off-limits to the public except for a few weekends in October every year.
"Little Green Men"
Traveling really expands your horizons (literally) and adds to your education about the world. So here's what I learned about the world in and around southern New Mexico today:
- The Trinity atomic bomb explosion occurred on July 16, 1945 in the White Sands desert.
- The alleged crash of an aliens space craft occurred on or about July 7, 1947 about 70 miles NE of Roswell near Corona, NW.
- These two events, although separated by two years, occurred within approximately 50 miles of each other.
Really, I'm just saying that it seems like more than a coincidence that the world's first atomic explosion and the world's most famous alien flying saucer spaceship crash occurred so close together in time and space.
Keeping Up With The Joneses

I don't know much about UFOlogy and I don't know if there is already a treatisie or two in the UFO canon written about the close approximation of these events. But just driving through this beautiful, desolate landscape in the course of a few hours certainly brought the point home to me: wouldn't it be likely that the first nuclear activity on a planet would bring interest and observation from another intelligent life form? I mean, it's certainly a milestone I'd look out for if I were keeping track of my cosmic neighbors.
Saturday, June 28, 2008
Day 29 Aside - Saturday, June 28, 2008
Tony Hillerman
BTW, we are listening to a Tony Hillerman novel on CD in the car -- the story is great, but the synchronicity is very spooky, because every time he mentions a town we're either in it or just come from it or see a sign pointing to it!
Perfume in the Desert
Also, the archaeologist had brought a bottle of perfume with her. It evaporated early in the trip during the 90+ degree F days. Moral of the story: don't pack perfume when traveling to the desert in the summer.
Gas Prices
I haven't mentioned much about this, but it's s6mething we talk about a lot and discuss in the car: we've been paying around $3.97 per gallon for gas. The lowest we've paid is $3.82 (toward the beginning of the trip) and the highest we've paid is $4.01 (m6re recently). The highest we've seen is $4.17 and that's been in Roswell, NM. (I guess it costs a lot to fuel your flying saucer.)
"Staycations"
I saw an article in a recent McNewspaper (i.e., the USA Today paper that many hotels give away free), noting that, because of the difficult economy and especially because of the high gas prices, many Americans have opted to stay close to home for summer vacations this year. We can certainly confirm this anecdotally because every place we have been to has been noticeable for its LACK of crowds.
This was even true at the Grand Canyon -- the only spot that had any noticable traffic was Mather Point, the first overview when driving into the South Rim. Other than there, we basically had the canyon to ourselves. This was especially true when we took the eastern drive out to Desert's View -- we had entire overlooks to ourselves and very few fellow travelers in the few spots where we did see others.
That has pretty much been the situation for every place we've gone -- very few people are on the roads or at the attractions (at least where we have been).
Day 29 - Saturday, June 28, 2008
Grants, New Mexico to Socorro, New Mexico (via Acomo Peublo and Los Lunas)
- left Grants taking I-40 toward Albequerque
- went south from I-40 to Acoma Peublo (also known as "Sky City")
- amazing 15 mile drive to it
- afterwards saw very cool Dust Devil when returning to I-40 (near the Sky City Casino)
- took Rt. 66 where possible toward Correo
- then took Rt. 6 to Los Lunas; again, every view a postcard
- took I-25 South to Socorro
- stopped early for the day
- that evening went to the old one-screen theater in town and saw "Wall-E"
Friday, June 27, 2008
Day 28 - Friday, June 27, 2008
Gallup, New Mexico to Grants, New Mexico
We had a rough morning getting started. The little human fell and twisted her ankle while were shopping for a pair of new shoes for her. It took a while to recover from that and get ready to travel again.
Later, the little human feeling better again, we took a drive down Route 66 in Gallup and the archeologist continued her love affair (i.e., obsession!) with photographing old signs. That led us to the El Rancho Hotel and Motel (and restaurant for lunch). El Rancho is an old-time famous place where movie stars of the 40's and 50's used to lounge at. My next trip back, I'm also going to stay there.
Afterwards, we took 602 South to Zuni Peublo. After stopping at the visitor's center (we try to do that in every city we're exploring), we then headed over to the Zuni Museum. After the museum, we looked for the famous (and old) Spanish mission, but we couldn't find it so we just headed out of town.
We took Route 53 West to El Morro, a famous landmark of sandstone cliffs and a reliable water source that has been visited for thousands of years. There are inscriptions from the travelers that have stopped there -- petroglyphs from ancient native people, military notations from Spanish explorers, and then white travelers from the 1880's. It's now protected and preserved, or else I'm sure the carving would continue into the present day with spray paint instead of chisels.
Afterwards we continued on Rt. 53 west to the Ice Caves! This was really interesting to see the lava flow on top the ground and the sink holes and caves where the lava tubes had collapsed. We arrived too late to hike to the volcano top, but we did have time to hike to the ice cave and see and feel the 31 degree temperature there. The whole wierd juxtaposition between the temperatures and the landscape made it all very other worldly. It was one of my favorite stops so far!
At 5:00 PM we crossed the Continental Divide (heading east).
Afterwards, we continued on Rt. 53 West into the El Malpais National Monument. There the little human and the archeologist went exploring, taking a good 3 mile hike into the "bad lands" and seeing more lava landscape and very cool things like Junction Cave and The Double Sink Holes. We were hiking specifically in search of the Bat Cave (its real name!) but couldn't find it and so finally turned back because the sun was setting. The walk was very desolate, but very beautiful, and from the top of the mesa we could see the setting sun reflecting off the sandstone cliffs encircling the valley far away and below us. We also had a gorgeous view of the San Mateo Mountains from the badlands mesa as well.
Around 9:00 PM we pulled into the outskirts of Grants and I got to see the last purples and oranges of a beautiful sunset through the windows of a fast-food restaurant we were eating at. That was something I hadn't expected to live to see!
We passed a lot of seedy-looking motels on Route 66 trying to find a place to stay for the evening. We finally found the newer hotels at the other end of town and settled in at a name brand place that had a pool open 24 hours. The little human loved that and took a late swim until 10:30 when and exhausted archeologist dragged her back to the room so she and her throbbing ribs could collapse, literally bone-tired, after the day's two strenuous hikes.
Thursday, June 26, 2008
Day 27 - Thursday, June 26, 2008
Chinle, Arizona to Gallup, New Mexico
It was a rough night for the archeologist. Her "ghost bead" necklace seemed to have actived nightmares instead of warding them off. Also, her ribs were hurting (possible due to a little over-zealous hiking in the Canyon the evening before).
Once everyone got settled, we took off for the south rim again to see the overlooks we didn't get to last night. We drove straight out to Spider Rock overlook (the most famous one and the most distant one). Something amazing happened there.
It rained.
This was the first time it had rained on us during our entire time in the Southwest.
And it happened like this: We were at Spider Rock overlook at the same time that a group of Native American school children were there. They arrived just as we did on two yellow school buses. After they made the hike to Spider Rock lookout and back, one of their teachers asked them to do a rain dance so that he wouldn't have to water his corn that evening. Several of the kids did a dance (they looked like they ranged in age from 3rd grade to 5th grade) and a few minutes later it started to rain. The teacher smiled and they all got on the bus.
We all just kind of looked at each other, impressed and surprised, and then we went on to Face Rock overlook and Sliding House overlook.
As the little human remarked, "Every place you turn your head, it's like you're looking at another postcard."
And it's true. Every view out the window, every national and state park, every mile down the highway and byway -- each tableau is a picture-perfect postcard with land, sky, sun, and clouds all complementing each other and framing each other beautifully.
When I graduate from RSC, I am totally going to move here. Even though brown bears aren't native to the southwest, I'll find some way to fit in.
After our second tour of the south rim, we decided to save the north rim for our next trip out here and head on as we slowly make our way back home.
We took 191 South to 264 East to Window Rock, and then we took 491 to Gallup, where we hunkered down for the night (and did laundry!).
Wednesday, June 25, 2008
Day 26 - Wednesday, June 25, 2008
Holbrock, Arizona to Chinle, Arizona
We couldn't leave Holbrock without one more stop at Joe and Aggie's Cafe on Route 66. The little human is especially enamoured with the $1.00 gift bags there (full of those plastic cups from vending & gumball machines).
We took I-40 East to 191 North through the Navajo Nation to Ganado and the Hubbell Trading Post National Historic Site. We watched a video about the history of the trading post and also the Canyon de Chelly. We had planned to go to the Canyon, but because we were trying to head back home, we had decided we didn't have time and were only going to stop at the Hubbell Trading Post. But after seeing the video of the Canyon, we all agreed that we had to go see it and so we continued north on 191 to Chinle.
In Chinle, we stayed at the historic Thunderlodge Motel and ate at the (also historic) cafeteria there for dinner and then took a sunset drive along the south rim.
We stopped at the following overlooks: Tunnei, Tseyi, Junction, and White House. We stayed a White House overlook for a stunning sunset on the canyon.
We all agreed that in many ways the Canyon de Chelly is even MORE spectacular than the Grand Canyon. I'm sure you're wondering -- how can that be? Here's my meager bear way of trying to explain it: the Grand Canyon is so big, so darn grand, that it's almost impossible to comprehend the immensity of it. It's so wide, you can't really see across it; and it's so deep, you can't really see to the bottom. It's like trying to take in the concept of infinity. It's so grand, you almost can't wrap your mind around it. However, the Canyon de Chelly is every bit as majestic and stunning in its features and geology, except it's on a much smaller scale....but a scale that you can take in and comprend. And that somehow makes it even more impressive/stunning/amazing than the Grand Canyon.
Also, the Canyon de Chelly has several Peubloan ruins that you can see with your naked eye -- and this adds to the intensity. Moreover, there is agriculture still being conducted on the canyon floor that you can also see with your naked eyes.
It's quite a place. It should go on all of your "bucket" lists.
Tuesday, June 24, 2008
Day 25 - Tuesday, June 24, 2008
Holbrock, Arizona
Today was more or less a resting day. Believe it or not, traveling makes you tired.
We slept late and then after lunch went to a couple of tourist traps and trading posts to look at petrified wood and other rocks for sale. We stopped at McGee's Native Art on Route 66 where the little human got a necklace: a polished rock set in a spiral like holder. And the archeologist got a set of "ghost beads," a string of glass beads and varnished juniper berries, said to ward off evil spirits that cause nightmares. (Note: it didn't work; the next night she had the worst dreams of her life in the Thunder Lodge at the Canyon de Chelly! She hasn't worn the beads since.)
We also went to "Jim Gray's Petrified Wood Company" which is pretty well-known in these parts. Part museum, part showcase of high-end petrified wood samples, part tourist trap, we amassed quite a collection of botanical and geological specimens!
Later in the day we took a drive through the Navajo Nation (I-40 East to 77 North to 6 North to 15 West to 87 South back to I-40), and took in more of the Painted Desert and also saw some spectacular mesa and plateau formations. On the way back, we stopped at the Homolovi Ruins (it's part of a state park) and the archeologist took a short hike to an actual archeological dig in progress where she saw kiva foundations and dozens of pottery shards in the process of being collected and catalogued. There was no one around but the two of us and it was quite a surprise to see this in-process digging site being left open for any old tourist to come by and check it out.
On the way back to our hotel in Holbrock, we drove on a piece of extant Route 66 between Winslow and Joseph City -- it was in the process of being reclaimed by Mother Nature and many sections of it had cracked and had grass growing in it.
Back at the hotel for the evening, the little human entertained us all with a "fashion show" of our petrified wood rock collection and the rest of us served as judges for the this reality show to decide on the lovliest samples.
We all went to bed refreshed and happy.
It was a very cool day.
Monday, June 23, 2008
Day 24 - Monday, June 23, 2008
Show Low, Arizona to Holbrock, Arizona
After leaving Show Low, we went through more of the Sitgreaves National Forest, which bills itself as the "land of many uses." Most of its uses for us was with eyeballs, although we did stop to take one small hike.
We took Rt. 260 East to Rt. 61 N and then 180A North to the Petrified Forest. It was another scenice byway and we enjoyed a drive with big puffy white clouds pinned in a deep blue sky, while tiny bulbous trees rolled past us over desert hills and grassland plains.
We spent the entire day driving through the Petrified Forest and the Painted Desert National Park and stopping at overviews and taking short hikes.
Coming in from the south, we watched the introductory movie at the first ranger station and then got the CD for the self-guided tour. We loved all 23 glorious, miraculous miles of it, especially the Blue Mesa, the Peutro Peublo ruins and petroglyphs, and Newspaper rock with more petroglyphs. Each stop was more impressive, more stunning than the last.
I could have easily spent another day or two there -- watching the different parts of the park unfold under different light and times of day. But the humans had to move on. There is so much to see here in this part of the world, and even a month doesn't do it justice.
We drove to Holbrock afterwards to spend the night.
Sunday, June 22, 2008
Day 23 - Sunday, June 22, 2008
Sedona, Arizona t0 Show Low, Arizona
Another glorious day started with breakfast at the Blue Moon Cafe in Sedona which had full views of Bell Rock and Cathedral Rock. Those are nice side orders with the pizza-pie-size Paul Bunyon pancake.
Afterwards we took 179 North for a last glimpse at our favorite rock formations, Bell and Cathedral, and then stopped in at the Chapel in the Rock -- a chapel built into the red rock formations just off 179. Not only was it a Sunday, but it was just after the Summer Equinox, so it was a great opportunity to contemplate space, time, spirituality, beauty, Nature, and the Everlasting, Everchanging All That Is.
And, of course, buy a souvenir at the chapel's gift shop.
Afterwards it was 179 South to I-17 South to Montezuma's Well, a "collapsed limestone sinkhole, containing organisms found nowhere else in the world." [from The People of Montezuma Castle and the Verde Valley booklet from the Western National Parks Association Press, http://www.wnpa.org/ ]
Montezuma's Well also provided an excellent opportunity to feel how HOT it is -- by the time we climbed to the top and then hiked the trail to the irrigation fields we were all incredibly red-faced (and not because we were embarrassed to be tourists). The temperature was a chilly 107F.
So afterwards we headed for cooler climes, specifically the White Mountains of Arizona. We took I-17S to Route 260 East to Payson, passing through the Verde Valley and Camp Verde, which both lived up to the name. Along the way, we saw many beautiful examples of the yucca plants in bloom.
As we climbed the Mongollon Plateau, the temperature dropped 20 degrees in 20 minutes. Again, at a mere 89F, we got our ear muffs out.
We followed Rt. 260 through the Conconino National Forest, and between Pine and Payson we took a detour into Tonto State Park to take a quick peek at Tonto Natural Bridge. There's a nice photo of Jackie there.
Afterwards we continued through the Mogollon Rim and Plateau through the Tonto National Forest. The roads were really narrow with no shoulders -- only gravel and gulleys. Once, the oldest human (who insists on doing most of the driving for some reason) almost ran off the road and for absolutely no reason. A few minutes later the little human (who has to ride in the back seat because she's not able to ride in the airbag-protected front seat) snuck a note to the archeologist. Scrawled in her terrified handwriting was: "Help me!!"
Despite a few near death experiences such as this ("don't head toward the light!"), we made it through three national forests: Coconino, Tonto, and Sitgreaves), each more picturesque than the other. All the while the little human kept us all entertained with her hilarious imitation of a parrot (named Sparky) doing a comedy routine.
Finally, we called it a day in Show Low, Arizona. I don't know the story behind the town's odd name. If anyone out there knows, we'd love to hear about it!
